Both the use and the mystique of spices goes back centuries. Ancient Egyptians used spices such as coriander, cumin, myrrh, frankincense, cinnamon and ginger in cooking—and also mummification.
The ancient Chinese developed the classic “five-spice blend” of cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds, star anise and Szechuan peppercorns. In Africa, spices such as pepper, cardamom, cumin and ginger were used as currency, as well as in cooking. The Aztecs and Mayans used allspice and white cinnamon, among other spices.
Highly valued as preservatives, spices commanded premium prices during the Middle Ages in Europe, as they had to be shipped overland or imported by ship. The Molucca Islands in Indonesia, even today still called the Spice Islands, were the largest producers of mace, nutmeg, cloves and pepper in the world.
Fast forward to the East Bay today, and the spice scene is flourishing. Flagship shop Oaktown Spice Shop—despite its name, also in Albany—was named “one of the world’s best spice shops” by Food & Wine magazine.
And tucked into mini-malls or front-and-center on major streets are other stores, some of which have been around for decades, where spice-lovers can revel in wide selections. Some shops focus on spices from certain areas of the world.
Such is the case with Brundo Ethiopian Spice Company in Oakland. General manager Daniel Aderaw Yeshiwas explained the evolution of the spice shop from the restaurant Cafe Colucci, opened in Berkeley in 1991. Getting authentic, top-quality spices from Ethiopia was a challenge—so much so that the restaurant’s founder, Fettlework Tefferi, returned to Ethiopia and established a small-scale spice production facility in Modjo, a village a few hours from the capital, Addis Ababa.
As spice production grew, “We asked ourselves, ‘Why not sell these?’” said Yeshiwas. And Brundo means “good food in a messob, the traditional basket that Ethiopian food is often served in,” according to the shop’s website. “Walking into the store is an immersive experience,” he added, in regard to the scents, the colors, the vibe.
Some of Brundo’s most popular spices and blends are its berbere (Ethiopian chili pepper blend), korerima (black cardamom) and mitmita (hot chili blend). Other spice blends are mekelesha (cinnamon, black cardamom, black pepper, nutmeg, among others) and makulaya (fenugreek, ginger, black pepper, among others).
Yeshiwas agrees that broader exposure to Ethiopian cuisine in urban areas has led to much higher demand for the spices needed to prepare it at home. The Brundo website has a tab for recipes and is also the way to order online.
Brundo prides itself on its relationship with Ethiopian farmers, encouraging the economy of the country, while providing access to the best-quality herbs and spices.
5849 San Pablo Ave., Oakland. 510.601.7999, brundo.com.
Also in The Town is Oakland Spice Blend—not to be confused with Oaktown Spice Shop. A small place on Shattuck Avenue, without even a website, it has received rave reviews from patrons. “It is an excellent little store with emphasis on product from Ethiopia and Eritrea, but also greater Middle East and East Africa. I particularly like their taita (injera),” wrote one. “It is fresh made at the store, from authentic ingredients … fondly reminds me of my mom baking fresh injera back home. The store is very clean and the people very courteous and friendly.”
5873 Shattuck Ave., Oakland. 510.250.9398.
In Berkeley, the Bombay Spice House is a South Asian supermarket carrying products, including spices, from India, Sri Lanka, China, Nepal, Tibet and Bangladesh, among other countries. Open since 1973, it has been named “Best in the Bay” multiple times and receives raves from customers for friendly service and range of offerings.
“The options feel endless!” wrote one shopper. “I was looking for ingredients to make chai at home, and the staff was helpful. Spices galore, as well as great grocery items; you should def stop in and check it out.”
Those seeking variations on the classic Indian spice blend garam masala (black peppercorns, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, coriander seeds, nutmeg, mustard seeds) will find them here, along with other favorite Indian cuisine spices, such as turmeric.
1036 University Ave., Berkeley. 510.845.5200, bombayspicehouse.org.
Old Salt Merchants is a minority woman-owned shop and online retailer in Berkeley with a unique selection of spices, spice blends and herbs, including Tunisian harissa (dried chili pepper paste, garlic), Aleppo pepper (crushed red peppers), Saigon cinnamon and Moroccan Bazaar Blend (Ras El Hanout), which classically contains 30-40 different ingredients, used to add a unique flavor to tagines and other dishes.
Owner Monique Rodriguez got into the spice and other condiments business by, as she said, serendipity. Having created a food blog to display her food photography, she segued into making gift sets of spices for friends. She contacted a retailer in Seattle, Old Salt Merchants, about buying some of the unique square jars they used—and this led to a conversation about her buying the business. Which she took a deep breath and did.
She launched the e-tail version in 2019, and has had the brick-and-mortar location in Berkeley’s Elmwood district for three years. Old Salt Merchants uses a blending expert who’s been in business for 50 years, taking the spices sourced from all over the world, and creating top-quality spice, sugar and salt blends.
In addition to the blends and spices mentioned previously, Rodriguez pointed to the Santorini Party Blend and the Amalfi Coast Blend as customer favorites. A new product, just being added, is Mexican Mole, which she expects to be a top seller.
“Our products have bold, intense flavors,” she said. The shop provides a sampling table, where people can try out spices and blends new to them before purchasing.
Other customer perks include: in-store “meet the maker” events, an email list that entitles participants to monthly offers or discounts and free gift wrapping, as the store sells many combinations of products as gifts.
Rodriguez also noted that Old Salt Merchants’ items are now available in the “Shop the Town” store at the Oakland Airport, which opened in March.
2935 College Ave., Berkeley. 888.995.SALT, oldsaltmerchants.com.
If variety is the spice of life, might not spice be the variety of life?
Other Spice Shops
- Oaktown Spice Shop, 546 Grand Ave., Oakland, 510.201.5400. 1224 Solano Ave., Albany, 510.356.4667. oaktownspiceshop.com.
- Lhasa Karnak Herb Co., 2506 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley, 510.548.0380. 1942 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley, 510.548.0372. lhasakarnak.com.
- William’s Natural Foods, 12249 San Pablo Ave., Richmond, 510.232.1911. williamsnaturalfoods.com.
- El Charro Super Mercado, 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, 510.434.1301.
